Most Popular Diamond Shapes for Engagement Rings by Decade

Angelica Frey | November 24, 2023

Much like engagement ring settings and styles, diamond shapes have experienced different levels of popularity in the last century. Unlike metal color and structural details of specific settings, diamond shapes never became the primary style signifier of a specific decade. All diamonds, including lab grown diamonds created by VRAI, possess an element of timelessness.

For example, the Round diamond has endured everlasting popularity since its “formal” introduction in 1919, when it was standardized by Belgian mathematician Marcel Tolkowski. It consistently ranks among the top three most popular diamond cuts, often topping the chart. No other shape displays the same levels of brilliance and scintillations seen in the Round diamond. Round diamonds also work with all styles, so if you like a particular setting, but are unsure about the diamond shape, the Round is usually the best choice.

Similarly, the Princess cut diamond, formally introduced in 1979 by Betazel Ambar, Ygal Perlman, and Israel Itzkowitz, has rivaled the Round diamond in popularity since its creation thanks to its modern and geometric look. The Princess cut is also ideal for a three-stone setting, as its square shape pairs well with side stones.

The history of engagement rings is fascinating. Some shapes became the embodiment of an aesthetic and an era. Step-cut diamonds such as the Emerald and the Asscher diamond, for example, became closely associated with the Art Deco era. The same is true for smaller Baguettes, which Cartier reintroduced in 1912 as side stones.

Celebrities and aristocrats also influenced diamond shape trends to a certain degree. Mia Farrow’s Pear cut engagement ring in the 1960s and Elizabeth Taylor’s legendary Asscher engagement ring both contributed to the rise in popularity of those two diamond shapes. Similarly, Jennifer Lopez’s diamonds, particularly the pink engagement ring she received from Ben Affleck in 2002, resulted in widespread interest in fancy-colored diamonds among the general population.

It’s important to remember that fancy shapes are not a modern-era novelty. In fact, diamonds have been cut in many different shapes and silhouettes since the Middle Ages. Pear diamonds, which were beloved in the 2000s and 2010s, were introduced in the mid-1400s by Flemish cutters and were known as “Teardrop” diamonds.

A version of Oval diamonds, which is now a much coveted shape, has existed since the 14th century, even though the current Oval cut was perfected in 1957. The Marquise diamond, the defining diamond shape of the 1990s, was first commissioned by King Louis XV of France (1710-1774), who wanted a diamond modeled after the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. Even the Heart diamond, which might strike as a contemporary invention, can be dated back to the 1500s.

timeline showing the most popular diamond shapes for engagement rings for each decade from the 1910s to the 2020s

1910s: Old European Diamonds

The harmonious, nature-inspired styles of the late Victorian and Edwardian era made round-shaped diamonds the ideal silhouette in engagement rings. The most popular round cut in the era was the Old European cut, which was the precursor of the modern Round Brilliant cut (standardized in 1919) and was notable for its larger facets

VRAI recreated the vintage-inspired, yet timeless faceting pattern of the Old European diamond via the Regulus cut, available through our Cut for You process.

1920s: Emeralds, Asschers, Baguettes

The 1920s were marked by Art Deco, an interdisciplinary cultural movement that interested all the visual arts. Its main features are an emphasis on geometry, verticality, and length. Step-cut diamonds, which have facets running parallel to the outline in a step-like fashion, lent themselves well to this aesthetic. Emeralds have a beveled, rectangular shape, Asschers have beveled, square shapes. Baguettes come in rectangular and tapered shapes and are used as side stones.

1930 and 1940s: Round Cut

In contrast with the geometry of the 1920s, the 1930s saw a return to curved shapes. Round cuts saw a return in popularity. In fact, Round diamonds were the most popular shape, as transition cuts between old european and the modern Round Brilliant were starting to gain traction. This period is also when solitaire styles gained considerable prominence, as they were more cost-effective during the depression. The prominence of the Round diamond continued through the 1940s, when the 1947 De Beers’ campaign “A Diamond is Forever” solidified the modern imagery around the engagement ring.

1950s: Round and Pear

Hyper feminine fashion translated into jewelry design. The modern Round Brilliant cut was introduced in the early 1950’s and dramatically improved the level of brilliance and sparkle of this diamond shape. Pear diamonds (also known as Teardrop and, formerly, Pendeloque) lent themselves to 1950s fashions.

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1960s: Asscher and Pear

The 1920s nostalgia, coupled with Elizabeth Taylor’s legendary Asscher engagement ring, ensured that square diamonds became fashionable. Mia Farrow’s engagement ring featured a Pear diamond as well, which contributed to the trends towards diamond shape.

1970s: Emerald, Princess, Radiant

The 1970s had a focus on verticality just like the 1920s. Emerald, princess, and radiant diamonds that paired well with the retro style of engagement bands.

1980s: Round

The 1980s were all about maximalism, both in terms of designs and in terms of center stones. Princess Diana’s Sapphire ring jump started a trend in colored gemstones. Perhaps as a callback to the 1940s, Round diamonds remain the most popular choice.

1990s: Marquise

Sharp edges and soft curves defined the fashion of the 1990s, exemplified by Grunge and minimalist fashion in equal measure. Shapes like Marquise and Pear embody this aesthetic. The Marquise, in particular, was particularly popular due to its two-point shape and for its large face-up size, which stands out in minimalist settings.

2000s: Princess, Asscher, Square

Princess diamonds and their chevron-like faceting pattern embody the glitter-focused fashion of the decade. In addition, Princess diamonds have sharp corners, symmetry, and brilliance.

2010s: Oval and Pear

The 2010s saw the steep rise in popularity of the Oval and Pear diamond, thanks to their brilliance that rivals the Round diamond and its larger face-up size per carat weight. Cushion cut also got their time in the spotlight, thanks to their unprecedented fire and for how well they pair with a halo setting.

2020: You

In the 2020s, the world of diamonds and gemstones is your oyster, with people opting more and more for innovative, storied, antique and non-traditional diamond shapes alongside other types of gemstones. Still, Ovals retain their trendy, yet timeless allure.

The diamond setting determines the overall style of an engagement ring more than the actual diamond shape. Any shapes can be timeless, vintage-inspired, or modern depending on how they are styled. Through VRAI’s Cut for You™ process, we offer 30 shapes that can go up to 13 carats in weight.